It was a bittersweet arrival into Hiroshima today. I left a very emotional stay at Beppu: Mama I’m home.

I have always wanted to visit Hiroshima. Most of the world knows about the tragic events on August 6, 1945. This was when the atomic bombing of Hiroshima occurred. I did not know how I would be feeling. Knowing about the roughly 140,000 souls lost made it emotional. Visiting Hiroshima felt almost like a pilgrimage. I came to pay my respects to the souls lost and the land hurt. I was not prepared for the overwhelming emotions I would experience. The people here are so friendly. The beauty of the place astonished me. Peace is the main message conveyed here every day.

Most people’s main focus is the Atomic Dome and Hiroshima Peace Museum. However, there is so much more to see and experience in this beautiful city. The beautiful Chugoku mountains caresses the city which ties in beauty through nature and invention in a harmonious flow.

History of Hiroshima courtesy of Wikipedia

Early history

The region where Hiroshima stands today was originally a small fishing village along the shores of Hiroshima Bay. From the 12th century, the village was rather prosperous and was economically attached to a Zen Buddhist temple called Mitaki-Ji. This new prosperity was partly caused by the increase of trade with the rest of Japan under the auspices of the Taira clan.[6]

Hiroshima was founded in 1589 as a castle town on the Ōta River delta. Following the Meiji Restoration in 1868, Hiroshima rapidly transformed into a major urban center and industrial hub. In 1889, Hiroshima officially gained city status. The city was a center of military activities during the imperial era, playing significant roles such as in the First Sino-Japanese War, the Russo-Japanese War, and the two world wars.

Hiroshima was the first military target of a nuclear weapon in history. This occurred on August 6, 1945, in the Pacific theatre of World War II, at 8:15 a.m., when the United States Army Air Forces (USAAF) dropped the atomic bomb “Little Boy” on the city.[5] Most of Hiroshima was destroyed, and by the end of the year between 90,000 and 166,000 had died as a result of the blast and its effects. The Hiroshima Peace Memorial (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) serves as a memorial of the bombing.

Since being rebuilt after the war, Hiroshima has become the largest cityin the Chūgoku region of western Honshu.

Day 1: Thursday, April 18, 2024

I took the Nozomi Shinkansen from Kokura. The ride in the green car was gorgeous. Hiroshima main Shinkansen train station is beautiful and huge. 

I’m staying 3 nights at the Hotel Grand Via which is located adjacent to the train station. It is so convenient. When you exit the train station, you take a left and another left, and you are right there.

I arrived an hour before check in. They asked me if it was okay for them to take my bags and hold them for me. Why yes madam that would be divine 

The hotel has people at every corner. They are ready to open a door or bow to welcome you to that part of the hotel. It’s a type of service haven’t seen in quite some time. 

I made my way to the Toshogu Jinja Shrine. A quick 5 minute walk away and one gigantic climb up very steep stairs. What a beautiful Shinto temple. Very serene 

It was a perfect reprise before check in. Check in of course was excellent, and  I’m staying on the 19th floor in a superior double room. I have access to the lounge on the 21st floor. Breakfast is included daily. Why not … 🙂 

The room is what I would expect from a Japanese standard hotel. Yet there are some lovely touches that make it special. It does feel a bit like the 1980’s cleaned up a bit. I don’t mind it at all. The fact that I’m 2 minutes away from the train station is heaven to me. And so far, service has been spectacular. 

After a quick unpack I headed out for the day. 

First stop …. Shukkien Gardens . Google maps is insane here In Hiroshima. Giving terrible turn by turns. Absolute bonkers directions. I was forced to do things the old way and pull out the map that the hotel gave me. 

According to google I was supposed to get there in 9 minutes. Well color me blank it took me 20 minutes of dead ends and what not. Hahahaha. Oh the adventure 

I finally made it and wow this garden is absolutely stunning and beautiful. It is what one would maybe refer to as a Japanese style garden. With beautiful motes, bridges, lush trees and exquisite foliage all laid out in a harmony.

What a lovely way to officially start my stay. I spent about an hour half. I then made my way to Hiroshima Jo and gardens.

Hiroshima JO Is an absolutely beautiful park and place to visit. I did not go inside the castle, as it is primarily ruins. My sciatica is particularly bothersome today. However, I did enjoy the peacefulness of the gardens. 

But I did snap some fabulous pictures 

I also stopped at the shrine to pay my respects and buy some omamori. I’ve been collecting quite a bit along my journey thus far. I also had some astrology read while there. Im very superstitious so this falls perfectly into my personality. HA!

From the Gardens and Castle, I made what seemed like a somber walk to the Atomic Bomb Dome.

Standing quietly on the bank of the Motoyasu River is the remains of the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall. It was nearly directly under the atomic bomb that exploded at 8:15 am, August 6, 1945. The name Atomic Bomb Dome emerged due to the shape left at the top of the destroyed building. It took my breath away. It’s so sad. The price people pay for other people’s war. I tried to visit the site and see if from different perspectives.

It’s really something to witness in person. Nothing to marvel at but something to keep one’s perspective on humanity in check.

I will be coming back tomorrow after my visit to the peace memorial museum, to which I have pre purchased tickets to 

I felt so exhausted and beat from my journey to Hiroshima. The walking and experiencing the monumental Atomic Bomb Dome was tiring. I decided to start making my way back to the hotel via the very convenient tram.

Hiroshima does not have a subway system. They have instead a very good tram and cable car network which can pretty much take you everywhere. And most all start or stop at Hiroshima Train station.

Well that ride didn’t last very long. I saw Fukuya Department store and hopped off.  I guess I wasn’t so beat after all. Nothing a little retail therapy can’t solve.

I shopped a bit ,but I was starting to feel very famished. I started heading home on foot searching for an okonomiyaki place along the way. Everyone Thinks that okonomiyaki comes from Osaka. But locals here will tell you that Hiroshima invented it first

I was so hungry that I couldn’t take it any longer. I kept peeping into little diners and restaurants until I saw that long flat metal grill. 

Yassssssss. I asked if I could sit down. They told me I need to be out within an hour. They have reservations. No problem. And it’s true, they must be very busy because their phone did not stop ringing It was insane .

The place was packed with Salary Men, japans version of a typical business man. They were suited up with their jackets on their laps or hung on hooks. Their ties were loosened. A highball (whisky soda) was in each hand. It was like I was eating and drinking with the “boys”.

I got the chefs special with everything plus dried shrimp mmmmm so darn good. I washed it all down with 2 drafts of Kirin Beer. I am now officially ready for bed. It seems im only a 10 – 15 minute walk away from the hotel. So naturally I’ll take the tram . hahahaha

Day 2, Friday April 19,2024

I woke up this morning and did some stretches to help heal my back. I got ready and went upstairs. I had quite a mediocre breakfast. The views were nice though.

Today is absolutely beautiful not a cloud in the sky 

I fired up the best buddy of mine, Google maps to find me the best way to get to the peace museum

When I initially was planning out my days, it seems that Google was giving me all the wrong information. It told me how quickly it would be for me to get there. Then, when I’m here, it gives me a whole other timing process. 

I gave myself one hour to get to the peace Museum from my hotel here next to the train station

Google maps kept telling me to take the 25 bus kept putting me at all the wrong areas to catch the bus from Finally fed up I pulled up my Apple Maps and guess what I had to go across or under and across the train station to the opposite side to catch my bus I made it with eight minutes to spare before my 9 o’clock online reservation

The peace museum complex located in the peace museum park is really nice and lovely. It really does look peaceful.

There were two lines in the museum. One for ticket purchases, and the other for pre-purchased online tickets 

At 9 AM it was pretty empty on both sides. But the pre-purchased side made it very easy for me while scanned my QR code and in I went.

For those who have not visited this museum and our sensitive, please prepare yourself and bring napkins

This has been one of the most difficult experiences as a tourist to endure. From the moment I saw the picture of the tattered young girl, I just started to bawl my eyes out. Nothing else shows the atrocities of war like this. It reveals how terrible humans are to each other. This is the place to be reminded of it. My heart kept breaking over and over again. It was especially painful when you see the mothers and the children. It hurts more when you learn about all these kids that have their pictures up and lost their lives.

I could not help but think of my mother. I wondered what it must’ve been like for my family at that time. The bomb was dropped here in Hiroshima. A couple of days later, the bomb was dropped in the town of Nagasaki. This town is close and over the mountain from where my mother is from. It all felt so relatable. My heart breaks just trying to write this. Reliving my moment visiting the museum was hard to swallow. Seeing what the devastation did and continued to do for years after was difficult. But, when you look at the area now it’s so peaceful so clean you see the elderly people walking the very fancy dogs throughout the park just a sense of calmness where there is strife and pain

Even though it was very difficult to experience, it was an absolute must to visit. The truth must always be known, as difficult as it may be. I took the time to read each and every plaque they had shared and picture they displayed.

About an hour and a half later I was done. I was exhausted. 

I will, note though I was so disappointed. When I reached the bottom, I was reading about Japan’s war efforts. These included the Manchurian war, which my grandfather was a part of. I also read about their time in the Philippines and, of course, Pearl Harbor. On the island where I’m from. A Melanin challenged American woman felt it very necessary to impose her opinions in a most vulgar manner. She basically said in such a privileged tone, that the Japanese had it coming. It took everything I could not to open my mouth and give a tongue lashing. Exhausted, I just left. There may be a lot of truth to what this privileged person was saying about the Japanese Government’s involvement. Even so, it does not excuse the 100+ thousand civilians murdered because of it. I was so darn upset and disgusted. I left without finishing reading that whole war part downstairs.

Once I left, I took a breath and went to see the children’s monument that they built for that young girl, other girls, and children who lost her lives during an after the bombing so touching

I went to see the dome again took a beautiful picture from it across the river and then I was done

I did not know what to do. I was almost tempted to just hop over to Miyajima As tomorrow is supposed to be raining, I just decided not to for some reason I feel so exhausted 

I walked around a bit and ran in to this really beautiful Shinto Shrine Called Shirakami- Sha.

The priests were there offering blessings so I cleaned my hands. I dropped some coins and shook the bell. Then I clapped my hands and bowed first. I said a prayer. And, as I was being blessed, quietly bowed twice and then left.

I wandered a bit and went into the Cosmo department storen to use the bathroom. For some strange reason, I’m really really hungry. There was a little Stand making some.Anpan In the form of fish. I got the Azuki bean. It’s also known as sweet red bean to people who do not know what Azuki is. That only somewhat satisfied me.

Still hungry and mind you it’s only 1130. I popped into a Japanese restaurant serving Italian food. I ordered a small glass of white wine and shredded cod and fish roe pasta. It was actually quite delicious

I am so tired. I don’t know why I’m hoping I’m not getting sick. I don’t feel like I am. I decide to just go back to the hotel and take a nap.

But first a stop at the Anderson bakery at the Eki for two pastries. I told you I was hungry! I just don’t know why.

I came to my room, devoured the pastries and passed out!

I woke up thinking to myself. What am I supposed to be doing today? Do I start getting ready for Miyajima ? And then I realize I just took a nap a three hour nap And I could sleep even more

I don’t want to waste my time here. The nap was so good and much needed. I believe I became extremely emotionally drained. I need to go do something and Be productive

Across from my hotel, under the train tracks, are a bunch of little huts. These are izakaya-style shacks where I saw sake stands yesterday. It looks like it’s a very hit spot.

I stopped at cute bar and ordered hot NIhon Shu with Hiroshima oysters (fresh ) my mom loves it fried 

I had another NIhon Shu but this time it was more sour. Perfect to go with oysters. The owner was so sweet and we celebrated the birth of his nephew yesterday 

Buzzed I walked around a bit and went shopping at Fukuya. Sadly nothing caught my eye. 

Hungry again. I know, right? What is up? Hahaha. I searched for okonomiyaki. I found one and hopped onto a train. Alas, when I got there, they said they are only serving locals today. 😦 darn it. It’s okay across the way is a pachinko parlor. Why not hahahaha. If you don’t know, I do love me some Vegas. If that gives you any inclination as to what I enjoy on occasion. Never a problem just for fun. 

I passed by this cute Game Center where you try to grab an item with those terrible Cheeto f claws. Some lady won her a my melody doll after 3 400¥ tries. That’s pretty awesome. I ducked at my 3 , 100¥ tries but I had fun. 

Okay now I’m hungry for yakitori since I can’t have okonomiyaki 

Every place I ducked into were either full or didn’t want a solo person. Finally I found a place and here I am enjoying my Sapporo draft beer and awaiting my yakotori 🙂 

Day 3, Saturday April 20, 2024

Woke up super early. Yay me hahahaha 

Gathered myself together and headed out the door around 7 ish. 

Went downstairs to send my main luggage to Kyoto ahead of time as I will be there tomorrow. If you haven’t read my intro to Japan… A Tribute Journey to my Mother, I am absolutely obsessed with Yamato Luggage service and others like it

My bag falls under the 160 dimensions. A large trunk. The cost ? $14 USD I’m gagged every time hahaha. I wish we had this service in the USA. It’s brilliant 

Since I’m already downstairs, I decided to have breakfast this time at Dish Parade which is a larger restaurant then the sky lounge 

There were more options and people and the food was just okay. I guess …. I’ve been alternating breakfasts at hotels. Hakata’s Blossom Premiere ( Fukuoka, the elegant capital city of Kyushu )had a much better quality breakfast spread than here. But never the less I’m fueled up and more importantly with coffee 😉 

Today is Miyajima …

It’s now about 8 am and the train station is as busy as ever. There are high school students in their uniforms and travelers heading to their next destination 

I fired up my Apple Maps and was told what platform and time the local train to Miyajima-Guchi would be. 

I tapped my phone (Suica Ic). I entered and went down the stairs. In 2 minutes, I was on a busy train to Miyajima. 

The fair was a little over 400¥. So absolutely affordable.

In something like a half hour I landed in MiyajimaGuchi and tapped my way out. 

The air was much chillier. Fortunately I brought one of my pashminas with me. 

It was supposed to rain today. So I dipped into a Lawson and purchased one of those clear long umbrellas ☂️. I landed at Miyajimaguchi and made my way to the pier. About a 5 minute walk tops. 

Today was supposed to rain so I popped into the Lawson and bought an umbrella 

What a pretty area so far. The sea looks so calm and inviting. While it may be over cast it’s still a beautiful day. 

There were two lines forming at the pier. The ferry line for the JR ferry and the other one. I went with the other one as the ferry was already there and I by passed buying tickets in a line because I already had an ic card that you can conveniently click and board 

I was amazed that the entire process took just 10 minutes. It included getting off the train, boarding the ferry to the left, and pushing off. 

Another 10 minutes and I’m docked on beautiful Miyajima island 

It was very peaceful around the 8:45 ish hour. Not too many people 

I was greeted as I exited the ferry port , by a very unassuming deer. Oh dear 😉 how absolutely cute 

The walk to Itsukushima Jinja was absolutely peaceful So many deer are dotting the path. Posing like true beauties. They seem friendly but there are signs posted indicating that they are indeed wild. So take caution. 

I made the turn around the bend. Then, I saw it. That beautiful Torri Gate was floating in the water. It was spectacular. 

I slowly made my way to the Jinja and took my time exploring this beautiful shrine to the 3 goddesses 

There was a small que for the perfect photo of the floating torri gate but it was quickly. Japanese are respectful and efficient. 

The jinja is really beautiful. That vermillion red is stunning. 

I made my way then to the ropeway , it’s a little hike up to catch the funicular unless you decide to catch the bus , to go up to Mt Misen 

I bought a one way ticket  and the cable car that takes you up is very peaceful. 

You can hear the birds calling to each other. It’s absolutely stunning and I got a bit emo. 

Once you reach the half way point , they pack you into another car and I mean PACK and then you reach the first observatory of mt Misen 

From here you can now walk the path to summit. Let me tell you, honey, it’s the first of many steps you’ll take. You’ll be climbing UP to the summit. 

It felt like forever to get up to the summit

I kept having to push myself to get there that’s how unfit I was. I guess you could say really funny because I’ve climbed Florence‘s Duomo and it’s in one day last year. I climb the Duomo in Milan, but this was treacherous because it is not an even step it’s all kinds of terrain, so to the wise be prepared 

Please don’t be an idiot like me and wear Birkenstocks. It’s very comfortable and appears easy to use for hiking. However, when I saw the notice of the viper snake, I almost died. I am deathly afraid of snakes. We do not have them in Hawaii, so I guess I was kind of OK. I felt like I had boots or some kind of covering on. At least I have some protection from a bite, but then again I am a hypochondriac when it comes to snakes 🐍 

I finally reached the summit. I was so tired that my legs were shaking. I started cracking up, laughing out loud. It’s kinda like my body was saying to me, sister, you think you can. You swear you can. Yes, before you could. But girl, you need to prepare next time if you wanna go hiking. 

I’ll be quite honest with you. I was so exhausted. I couldn’t really make the actual summit because there were more stairs going up. I said hell no I wanna go down.

I visited some of the shrines and I made my way down following the Daisha-in path. 

OMG going down can be just as bad as going up and I was going down for almost an hour. I almost ate it when I slipped on leaves on a path unfortunately I caught myself. I think I was too busy hunting to see if there was a snake in my way what an idiot. 

Absolutely I do not regret. It asked me about it tomorrow and I’ll let you know how I’m feeling.

I felt bad because I saw people when I was more than halfway down just coming up doing the walking path some of them already look like they were about to die and asked me if this is the halfway point and I said no, not yet 

So in all honesty, if you are not in good shape, I do not recommend it. Fortunately, I may not be in the best shape, but I still have some shape and I. have a mean set of calves Hahahaha 

The walk down is so absolutely beautiful. They’re beautiful, river ways, damn, and gulches. Stunning foliage, and Sounds of Nature everywhere

By the time I made it down to Daisha-In Temple, I couldn’t do it. I couldn’t climb any more steps. I couldn’t visit the beautiful temple and it looks stunning for Mr. entrance. It took everything I could to make it to somewhere to sit down and eat as my legs were on fire

After a nice cold beer and mediocre food, I walked through the town, visited the pagoda and did some street shopping, but not much but really just look

I was so tired already. It’s almost 6 and it’s time to go home.

So that is what I did I grab the nice soft cream Ice cream cone and left. 

The JR line for the ferry was epic again. So, I just went to the one on the right. It was the fastest. I used my IC Card, and that was it. I was heading home. 

I spent a good 6 hours on Miyajima. I’m absolutely exhausted from scaling down what felt like Mount Everest. However, I am also entranced by the absolute beauty of the island, both natural and man-made. People can call Miyajima a tourist trap all they want. It is spiritually gorgeous. It is absolutely beautiful. 

I was so absolutely beat I didn’t think I could even walk back to my hotel. …. I really put myself through it today. Let’s see how I feel tomorrow.

I do hope people reading this downloads the Suica card to their iPhones. If you have one. It makes life so easy. While most temple places and and some stores require cash , everywhere else is a tap away. 

On my way back to the hotel, I stopped at 7-11. I had forgotten that I have not had that absolutely famous egg salad sandwich. So that would be my snack. 

Mmmmmm soooooo good 

Exhausted I passed out for about an hour 

Much needed 

I watched the RPDR finale on my phone. I saw sister Sasha Colby step down and serve it to the children. And I’m so glad Nymphia wind won. If you know you know 😉 

Now I’m sitting on a very comfortable chair on the 21st floor of my hotel. I am staring out into the city, watching the sun set. I enjoy my fourth glass of cab while listening to the eighth emergency vehicle go by. 

I’m debating if I should give it one more go and go out for something delicious to eat. Or should I make peanuts and cheese and wine tonight’s dinner. 

Honestly , I would love a fierce bowl of delicious ramen 

Well I decided to go back to the shopping area for some walk around and ramen. 

I took the #2 tram. I’ve been using it a lot. I got off by Mitsukoshi building. I walked around a bit and found a small perfect place for spicy miso ramen and ajitama egg. Oishiiiii 

It’s lightly raining tonight and I’m grateful it waited u til the evening to sprinkle. 

Now I’m headed back on you guessed it, tram #2. I’m enjoying tapping my way with my Suica card in my Apple wallet. 

This ends a wonderful 3 night stay in beautiful Hiroshima. It definitely was an emotional journey but one that everyone I feel if they can , must do. 

I have enjoyed myself as a solo traveler thus far. It’s weird not to have mom here with me in Japan. But I’m moving forward and creating new memories. 

Tomorrow …. Kyoto, The Thousand Year capital of Japan and guess what? I don’t have to rush to the station to catch my train. Because I’m next to it hahahaha