Kanazawa is one of those places on earth that just leaves a permanent memory. It becomes almost a safe space in your head to revert back to. You can find comfort there when the world seems lacking in empathy and beauty. When planning my journey throughout Japan, Kanazawa was far off my radar. I was so lucky enough to be suggested to visit this place. And I am so very glad that I did.
I came to Kanazawa after a fabulous week in Tokyo. Thank you! . It is my 8th city I visited in Japan… A Tribute Journey to my Mother. Kanazawa is a city with tales of ninjas, samurais, and their own Geisha and geisha district. It ended up being a no-brainer visit for me.
Kanazawa is the capital of the Ishiakawa Prefecture of Central Japan , and next to the Sea of Japan. This was my first time seeing the Sea of Japan. I am usually either on the Pacific Ocean or the East China Sea sides of Japan.
Day 1 Thursday 5/2/2024
I just came off the 2 1/2-ish hour Shinkansen ride from Tokyo on the Kagayaki Shinkansen.
The JR East line seems to be a little bit more comfortable in my opinion. It was definitely a little bit more luxurious than the others I have been on.
An interesting thing is that, as with the other JR Shinkansens I’ve taken, I attached my IC Suica card number to it. When I went to the turnstile and tapped it, it normally would give me a ticket. However, this time with the JR East line, there in Tokyo station it just registered that I checked in. I approached one of the security there to see if this was correct or did I need a physical ticket. He said I’m fine.
I Arrived In Kanazawa to a Beautiful train station. I could not help but smile, what a gorgeous place
The weather outside is super crisp and it’s I think it was 67 or 68°. Fortunately I had my coat and everything ready because I had read that it would be a little chilly.
But the air here just felt so delicious
I’m not sure if it’s because I just spent a week in Tokyo. Thank you! In Tokyo the air quality was pretty good. However, here in Kanazawa, it’s like the fresh air is being absorbed deep into my lungs.
Even the entryway to the train station is so beautiful with that amazing Tori ( or Gate)
I’m staying at the Hotel Nikko Kanazawa It is about a five minute walk from the train station
The hotel lobby is so grand that it reminded me of an Era of grand opulent lobbies, with sculptures and plants, flower arrangements and water, fountains and luxurious couches and chairs to relax on
Surprisingly , it was the first hotel to allow me to check in well before the 3pm check in time ( it was 1pm)
My room is on the 21st floor and it faces the train station and the ocean and It’s perfect.
It may seem a little bit dated, but the comfort level is definitely there. I actually really like it and I had an amazing sleep that first night so that says something.
I was hearing a ringing at my doorbell. They were delivering the luggage I sent the other day from Tokyo I truly love this service https://www.kuronekoyamato.co.jp/en/ . It has been an absolute life saver this entire trip. Just not having the cumbersome worry of dragging your heavy luggage on and off trains etc is god sent .
I unpacked a little and headed straight out the door. First stop Kanazawa castle and Kenroku-en park
I had a beautiful walk to the castle. Along the way, I stopped at Omicho Market. It has been the largest fresh market since the Edo period. You can find all sorts of delicacies here. But for me, I sometimes have a hard time with fresh markets, even if it’s primarily seafood.
Wow, it’s definitely an experience. As mentioned, I’ve never been one for that type of market. That is why I didn’t go to Tsukiji. My mom would’ve been in heaven especially to eat the Uni and crab. 🦀
The entrance to the castle grounds are just stunning. The day was so beautiful. The sun was shining brightly. Everything looked very green. There was a chill in the air. This prevented overheating as you climbed up to the castle grounds and through to the park. Kanazawa Castle Park is a beautiful retreat and a great place for families. From up top the castle walls you get a commanding view of the city.
It is a really pretty area. I mean it’s just really beautiful, that it’s almost fantastical. I feel like going back again later on today just to walk through
Kenroku-en park costs ¥320. And it’s worth it! This park is absolutely beautiful. It’s great for solo people who need some solitude. They can enjoy the beautiful nature while trying not to hear screaming tourists from a certain country. It’s also perfect for families introducing their children to the wonders and beauty of nature and of Japanese garden art. And of course, it is spectacular for loving, romantic couples.
What an amazing park. I spent about three hours here just taking my time and enjoying myself. I watched tourists from a certain country climb over the barricades. They stepped on the grass despite signs saying please do not walk on the grass to take their hideous pictures. If this was Hawaii they would be dragged out by their hair
Anyway, it didn’t ruin my visit. It just made it quite interesting. I think the park should have or rather employ maybe some of the uncles Or aunties To patrol and make sure that people aren’t acting a fool
The views from the park are gorgeous. The pond around the park Are gorgeous.
I stopped at Yugao-tei tea house. I had some lovely matcha and mochi while staring at the most beautiful pond. I listened to the sounds of gushing water from the Midori Waterfall next to the tea house. I could only imagine the experiences during the Maeda clan days. People took sanctuary in this tea house and enjoyed the beauty of nature throughout all seasons.
I’ve seen some interesting points of reference within the park. I visited the Meiji monument and the Kotoji Lantern. I also explored the Ishikawa prefectural museum of traditional art. Additionally, there is the gorgeous Seisonkaku Villa, which is the home of the 13th Daimyo for his mother. What a good son lol
The two interesting things about this place are the house and the purpose of each room. Of course, the dolls are also fascinating.
Next, I left the park. Then, I went to Kanazawa Jinja to pay my respects to the gods of this area. What a pretty shrine.
Next to it was the mysterious Kinjo-Reitaku Sacred well. According to legend, a man named Imohori Togoro was washing yams in the flowing water. As he washed them, gold dust came out of the yams. People started calling it the “gold washing marsh” (“kanearai no sawa”). This is said to be the source of the name Kanazawa.The spring is famous now for its Healing and Mystical Powers.
As I left the Park area, I followed a path where the cars were going down a beautiful deep embankment. It was covered by trees. Then I saw a few of the Vermillion Tori. There must’ve been a shrine next to it. So I went and I visited the Ishiura Shrine.
Next, I considered just walking home because it was cold and chilly. My sciatica was acting up again. However, as I walked home, I was just blown away by the sheer beauty of the city. This green city sits juxtaposed to the modern city. There is so much beauty here.
There was even a school and I don’t know if it was called the fourth High school memorial Museum. While it was closed, the facade was so beautiful. It has kind of a north American/British architecture. It was just so beautiful right next to the Hirosaka Park. I found myself so happy here. There is just something about nature and beautiful architecture. Whether it is old or new, it just does something to me. So far, I have to tell you I’m madly in love with this city.
The stomach has been growling. As I make my way back to the hotel, I keep seeing these cute little restaurants. It’s almost 6 PM. Unfortunately, every one I wanted to go into was fully booked for the night. I especially wanted to eat at this little French bistro.
Finally, there is a tiny restaurant right in the back of my hotel. I think I may be their first customer. I am so grateful I was let in.
I ordered grilled chicken that came back seared and the meat didn’t just look pink. It looked red. I got really scared and didn’t eat much. Then I got worried. I thought all the ones that did eat would be in danger, even though it was more the fat part. That is gonna keep me safe. Of course, probably overreacting. It’s just that the United States has poor care and cleanliness for animals. Therefore, you have to cook your chicken thoroughly to avoid getting sick. I felt like I was so rude but I was just nervous. Lesson learned I guess.
However, I did eat kind of fried chicken. I forgot what the style was called. It is not karaage, but it was so delicious. The flavor was kind of sweet and almost spicy. I ate that with some kimchi and tofu and I was good for the night.
I walked around the train station area quickly. I saw that they had some cute stores. Indeed, there are some very cute stores adjacent to the train station. For some reason, I’m tired and I’m cold. I just wanna go home put on my pajamas and relax.
The cherry on top of such a wonderful day is the introduction to this beautiful city. My TV at the hotel has a Netflix option. I got to catch up a little on some stupid shows that help me fall asleep. It made my first drop-dead gorgeous day in this beautiful city even better.
I am excited for tomorrow’s adventures. I am a bit embarrassed to admit that I don’t have a great itinerary put together for the city. I’m not sure what I’m going to be doing today. I have some points of interest that I want to see. I’m gonna just need to look at a map like the old days.
Day 2: Friday, May 3,2024
I woke up this morning to beautiful view outside my window of Kanazawa Train station and the city stretching out to the sea
There is not a cloud in the sky
I slowly got myself together. I can finally feel that my body is getting tired of traveling. It needs a couple of days of doing absolutely nothing to rejuvenate. I’ve been seeing massage signs everywhere and I’ve been wanting to go, but I don’t know what it is. I just don’t wanna stop and it’s kind of like the whole resting thing. I just cannot stop. I have a day like that. In Tokyo, it was raining so much that it was not worth continuing outside or even visiting anything. So, I snuggled in bed, watched some TV, and then I got ready for dinner.
Today breakfast is in the hotel. I booked my package with breakfast this time. I like to spice things up, see. Breakfast is on the second floor. Oh my gosh, they have an amazing spread. It includes both Western and Japanese options. I opted for some western because of the whole chicken fiasco the night and I also wanted to put some probiotics into my body, so I ate a lot of yogurt which I probably will do again today but tomorrow it’s definitely full Japanese breakfast
I would say I was out the door of the hotel by 9:30 AM
I had a beautiful walk to the Higashi-chaya area ( Eastern Tea House district). It is the most famous of the three geisha tea house areas of Kanazawa.
Higashichaya, or Higashi for short Is absolutely stunning. And also extremely dangerous For I shopped and shopped and shopped. There are so many beautiful art stores selling delicious food, amazing art, and beautiful, gold leaf lacquer, and jewelry and just the best of everything
This area is so beautiful while it may be reminiscent of Kyoto, It 100% has its own feel and it is absolutely gorgeous
So many people were dressed in kimono. It was so lovely to see. Actually, a lot of them were Japanese families and friends. And Kyoto a lot of foreigners were dressed up, which I thought was equally amazing and what a fun adventure. But when you’ve got J-Lo’s bottom And Dolly Parton’s top And stand at 5:11 It is extremely difficult to find something that’ll match me unless I grab a yukata from a sumo tori
I stopped in a Chaya House to have some iced Matcha tea. They gave me some mochi snacks in a Chaya tea house. It offered a chance to visit the property, which I didn’t want to do. I just wanted to have tea.
I finally started to get hungry after that gigantic breakfast earlier. As I looked around, nothing was really piquing my interest. Then I saw a picture of what looked like Omurice. I’ve been dying to eat in Japan. However, I still haven’t, and I don’t know why. I know it’s not omurice, but hanton rice. A Kanazawa specialty.
This little restaurant was run by five aunties. It was so cute and, of course, cash only. The food was absolutely delicious. The thin omelette style over the rice was drizzled with ketchup and tartar sauce. Some breaded prawns on top made for a perfect meal and a nice rest.
I walked around the area for a bit. I made my way up to Utatsu Shrine. Then, I walked all the way up that steep hill to Hosenji Temple.
It is very serene and peaceful up there.
From up top you can view the beautiful valley filled with black tiled roofs. In the distance, you can see Kanazawa Castle and Kenrokuen park. I was there yesterday.
All that exercise built up an appetite for something sweet.
Earlier I saw a kakigori ( 🍧 shaved ice ) place. There was a long line. But since I was traveling solo I got in within five minutes but was asked to not take too long. No problem. !
I woofed it down ! It was so delicious , refreshing and exactly what I needed
I was planning to walk back the way I came. Then, I intended to fire up maps to see what was around me, however, I was so distracted. I saw beautiful huge Koi fish on the bridge of the Asano River. They were flying under the bridge for boys’ day. I think it’s called children’s day now
Of course, I had to walk to it take a look at it. It was so pretty.
Next, I walked the opposite direction from that to the quaint, small and peaceful little Kazuechaya Area. Another geisha tea house district. Everything was quiet and closed. Probably in preparation for the evening when the area truly comes alive.
I started to feel like I needed to take a nap after all the touring. I thought I would rest for a little bit. Then, I would come back to this area in the evening to see what it’s like all lit up.
I just followed the riverbank. Then I came to a Meadow bridge, swung a left, and made my way to Oyama shrine. What an absolutely Gorgeous temple grounds. From the peaceful garden to the beautiful architecture I rested for a good half hour. Soaking it all in.
I followed the path up to the bridge through to Nezumita-Mon gate. Its hazy gray blue color set against a lush green hill really brought its contrast to life. You can smell the wood ( I’m not sure what they used smells like Cedar and the smell is absolutely stunning. It really adds to the experience of crossing the bridge into the gate.
From there, I went into the garden Gyokusen-an while it was pretty much closed. You can still sit and watch. You can look around, and even some camera people arrived. I guess a new celebrity and was doing interviews and was still delightfully happy when he saw a couple from Europe and it was Funny when he tried to speak English and chuckled so sweet
The gardens are so beautiful I mean, what is not beautiful about this city it’s like every inch every square inch you encounter something stunning and beautiful
By this time, it’s already 6 PM. I didn’t realize how quickly the day has flown by
I walked back to the train station. I wanted to do a little shopping in the mall next to it. I lost this beautiful hair clip that I found when I was in Oita. I hoped to find something similar, but I didn’t. Instead, I found something else. Not as great but still good enough.
This time I’m starving. Of course, instead of looking for restaurants, I find a Pachinko hall outside next to the mall. Well, since I’m here, I might as well try it. It is gigantic. I’m there for about a half hour, and then I’m too tired. I had to leave.
Now I’m starving. I went back to my hotel thinking I guess I’ll try some of the European food. I’ve been kind of hungry for French food since I saw that bistro sign the other day. However, upon closer inspection, the pricing here at the hotel, not to be surprised. Is expensive and I just didn’t feel like shelling out that when really deep down inside, I was craving Ramen. I need to eat Ramen almost every other day when I’m in Japan. Back home in Hawaii, I eat Ramen once a week. Let me clarify that: I also eat Japanese rice. It’s a must and I must have it.🍚 And that is where I am just like my mother
I packed my bags when I came home. I need to send a big one out today. I am leaving for Sendai the day after tomorrow.
Day 3: Saturday, May 4, 2024
Today is Nagamachi and I’m excited.
I think Kanazawa has been for me the city that throws experiments at me. For instance this morning I chose to go to the sixth floor for breakfast. It’s a full Japanese breakfast at such a beautiful Japanese restaurant. It’s a set menu obviously, but the fish that it came with blowfish, had me um, “blown” away.. It took me 20 minutes to decide whether or not to eat it. I also sent text messages to my uncle to see if it’s safe enough to eat. Additionally, a lot of research was done. I’m happy to say that it’s been an hour since I’ve eaten and I’m still alive. Hopefully that’s a good sign. It was cooked and fried there was no skin. There was no skin on the fish. Everybody in the restaurant was eating the same thing as me, including kids. Wow, I would never have. I’m glad I tried it, even though I was very dramatic about it for a few minutes.
I’m going over my day. I’ve been reflecting on what I’ve accomplished so far (a little insta post here and there). I start to realize that my journey here in Japan is getting very close to the end. This realization made me a little sad.
Next on my agenda or first on my agenda is the Samurai district of Nagamachi
Along the way, Google Maps directed me through all the different little back roads. I followed the stream, and it was so beautiful. All the houses against an ancient stream living next to it as their ancestors have done for hundreds of years
I can not remember the name of the bridge I crossed, but it had that information and it was really spectacular to walk that path
I got to the samurai district and needed to use the bathroom badly. Fortunately for me, Japan, and especially Kanazawa, has beautifully clean bathrooms in homes that look like works of art.
I enjoyed my walk-through Nagamachi and I did a little shopping
The nice thing about a lot of homes is that they are free to visit. You can see how some samurai and helpers lived.
Many establishments are run by elderly gentlemen. I assume they are part of a clan or a community. They gather together and welcome tourists. They were very eager to find out where I was from and it was very sweet.
I made my way. I was just trying to get lost a little bit. Then I saw Gucci out of the corner of my eye. Well, there you go then.
I walked into the department store just to look around. Then I noticed that in the back was that old middle school. I talked about it the other day. So I walked to the park, enjoying the beautiful day and seeing everyone enjoying their day as well
The sun is super bright. The sky is super clear and the air is very comfortable 73°.
I just followed the path. I remember taking this the other day when I was coming down from. Kenroku-en.
I peeked through the museum of contemporary modern arts. Outside, the UNESCO Jazz fest was happening. It was so cool to hear some music.
I stopped by for a Matcha latte And continued my walk throughout the grounds.
From there I walked to the NishiChaya district
This district is much much smaller than its sister areas of Higashichaya. There was even a geisha municipal building. I thought that was quite interesting.
I then walked up to the temple area filled with temples and shrines and started off with Myoryuji temple.
I walked around, peeking into the different temples and bowing at the certain shrines. Then I crossed another very large bridge back to my hotel.
Crossing the bridge was beautiful. To my right, I could see the snow-capped mountains. They were to the left of the river. The breeze was so welcoming as the water gushed downstream.
I’m starting to get really really hungry now it’s already 2 PM
So I run into this cute little shopping Street called Tatemachi Street.
I found my place, a really cute curry house and had two types of curry and a beer. Totally enjoyed it.
Next, I just shopped around for a little bit just looking nothing really caught my eye
I Then very, very slowly made my way back to my hotel
I am going to go and enjoy a nice cocktail upstairs in a little bit. I will pack my bags and get ready for my journey tomorrow to Sendai. My last three nights in Japan
Day 4: Sunday May 5, 2024 Departure day.,
Breakfast was a circus this morning on the 2nd floor. There was a 15 minute wait. We , the entire residents of the hotel , all had the same idea of eat when we did hahaha.
It all worked out fine. The staff is amazing f and they can turn over a table super fast.
More probiotic breakfast for me today. Just because.
Check out was a breeze and 5 minutes later I was in Kanazawa station traversing past a multitude of people.
Everyone is traveling today. And why not , it’s another drop dead gorgeous day
Did a little last minute shopping at the adjacent train store called 100 something hahaha. I forgot to get my city magnet …. 🧲 found one
Clicked my way via my IC card at the turnstile on my phone
And within 10 minutes I boarded my green car train to Omiya where I’ll transfer trains to Sendai.
It’s so hard to stay awake as my seat is so comfortable. But how can I not stare out to the beautiful Japanese Alps ? Like when would I ever see this again. So gorgeous.
I have about 25 minutes left of my 2 train ride.
There were a few awesome things I forgot to mention during my visit.
1. I love the accent of the Kanazawa people. It reminded me of my family back in Beppu. There were just certain common words pronounced a little differently and I loved that !
2. The people of Kanazawa reminds me of people from Oita. So kind and nice and very cheerful. There is always something about encountering really kind and nice people.
My trip is seriously coming to a close
I guess I am ready to go home soon. And get ready for another adventure, the adventure called life.
Next Stop, Sendai , The Green city by the Sea.
I am a Wanderlust Princess 