Beppu will forever be a part of me. So many fond memories . So many moments I miss so dearly. it definitely left its mark on me throughout the years.

Monday, April 15, 2024 

I arrive from Yufuin: Ryokan living and Hot springs Vibing to Beppu with my newly met cousin Ichiro. As we made our descent from on top of the mountain into beautiful Beppu, one could see as far as one’s eye could see. A plethora of plumes of smoke was everywhere. This indicated that there lies a hot spring. This is my third and the most important city for me on Japan… A Tribute Journey to my Mother

I haven’t been back to Beppu in over 12 years since my grandmother’s two year death anniversary in 2012. Now I’m here solo for the first time, and my no one in my family lives in Beppu anymore. I’m here on a pilgrimage. My mother’s birthday is two days away. Although she may be gone, I felt that I needed to visit the town of her birth. Her life celebrates our memories together as this is the place of my childhood On very long, hot summer nights and days I would come and visit, and stay with my grandmother along with my mother creating so many memories here 

A brief history and information about Japan’s most famous hot springs town

BEPPU:

The area of Beppu was part of ancient Bungo Province. During the Kamakura period, due to its onsens, it began to be used as a health resort for wounded samurai.[3]

Beppu Port (later Kunisaki Port) was opened on May 30, 1871, with connections to Osaka and other ports on the Seto Inland Sea. It was the main logistics hub for the Imperial Japanese Army during the Satsuma Rebellion of 1877. Hot spring development as a tourist destination began in earnest from 1879 with the opening of Takegawara Onsen. In 1885, a ferry service to Uwajima in Shikoku commenced. The village of Beppu was established on May 1, 1889 with the creation of the modern municipalities system and was raised to town status on April 11, 1893. 

Beppu and Hamawaki Town merged on April 1, 1906 (with a total population of 12,306). Beppu Station opened on July 16, 1911 and on July 15, 1923, a regular seaplane route to Osaka was opened. It was raised to city status on April 1, 1924 (total population 32,276). In 1945, after the Allied Occupation, Camp Chicamauga (present day Beppu Park) was established as the regional headquarters.[5] In December 1957, the camp closed and was transferred to the local GSDF garrison, with the site reopened as a park in 1979. courtesy of @wikipedia

My cousin decided to drive me towards the old house on  Noguchi Motomachi which no longer is there. I didn’t have the heart to tell him that he was going the wrong way because I could go to that house with my eyes shut. I would dream of going from the train station to my grandmother’s house hoping to see my grandmother. I’ve memorized this path countless of times as it brings me much comfort.

My cousin dropped me off a little bit early at my request to my hotel as I wanted to not bother him so much as he already picked me up and took me here, but also I have dinner with him later on in the evening and his family will be meeting for the first time as well  

Japan is very much always on the dot when it comes to timing   When they say 3 PM check-in, they mean 3 PM check-in. it’s been like that for the last two places. 

The HanaBeppu hotel is situated about a five minute walk from Beppu  train station a three minute walk from Beppu Koen. 

Since I wasn’t able to get checked in, I decided to walk around and get myself familiar with the city center. Unfortunately for me, it was pouring rain. I made my way down to the train station. A flood of memories just hit me like a ton of bricks. Some things have changed, and some have not. I continued my way to the Eki Mae, but I was so shocked and surprised to see how dead everything was.  Not sure if it’s because it was raining or if just things have really gone south.  Which doesn’t make too much sense. From my drive coming in, I noticed how much the city has grown. It is becoming more modern. My cousin told me that within the Oiita Prefecture, Beppu is the city that has grown the most. 

I was really bummed that so many things were closed. It just looks so desolate.   I even went into Tokiwa department store. It was once a glorious store where I used to go with my mom and my grandmother. They would so beautifully wrap purchases like they were gifts. But again, just nobody. I’m gonna chalk it up to the time of day and the fact that it’s raining. 

I couldn’t even find a place to eat   I was forced to go downstairs of Tokiwa doesn’t look like how it used to to eat curry udon. 

Somewhat satisfied, I left I still had an hour to kill.  oh no someone help me there are two pachinko galleries across the other. I guess I should just go in.  A few thousand yen down the drain (thank you amazing exchange rate) it was time for me to check in. 

I quickly walked back to the hotel. I was sat down on a lovely lounge chair overlooking a beautiful Japanese garden. Some remnants of Sakura blossoms were still on the tree. No shoes are allowed in this hotel, which means you must take your shoes off like you’re entering someone’s home. You will remain without your shoes the entire time you’re on the property. Check-in was a breeze. I was shown the facilities and oh my stars I’m going to live in the onsen ofuro 

My room is gigantic. There are two beds though, but it’s OK if I get bored on one I can go to the other.  It’s a large living room, separate bathroom, huge shower and bathtub en suite and commending views of the surrounding mountains of beautiful Beppu 

My luggage was already waiting for me in my room. I sent it from Hakata three days ago. Seriously, it cost me only $14 to send it. It’s a large suitcase. I chose to rearrange and unpack my other suitcase instead of heading to the bath. I stowed away all the things I acquired in Yufuin. 

At 6 o’clock prompt, my cousin picked me up with his wife and took me up the mountain for amazing Japanese Italian food. I know I know.   His son and two grandchildren joined us all of them, my cousins and it was a wonderful first time meeting. The kids are absolutely adorable and they were even more adorable over the large bottle of wine. My cousin and I shared.  we talked a lot about my mom. I shared with them who she was how amazing she was and how much they would’ve loved her after a lovely dinner they dropped me off. I quickly changed gathered my things for the baths went downstairs and indulged for a good 40 minutes.  Red is a lobster. I retired to my room and slept an ecstasy once I figured out the stupid AC in my room  

Tuesday April 16, 2024

Day 2

I woke up really early this morning excited to be back inBeppu.  I open the curtains. The mist was rising from the land. It was inching its way up the mountain. The sun was coming out, and the clouds were departing. Today is going to be a spectacular day.

On today’s agenda are the seven Hells . I’m going to start off at Umi Jigoku. Then I will make my way down visiting a few of the hells. Eventually, I will make my way down to the Hyotan ofuro.  

But before I go out for the day, I must make sure I’m refreshed and clean and comfortable so downstairs. I went again for my morning onsen  ofuro.  I have to mention that while I brought tattoo covers I have not once covered my tattoos yet. Maybe it’s because I look hakujin ( white foreigner). I don’t know, but no one‘s bothered me. I’ve been respectful not to flash things in peoples faces. 

Once I was already headed down to Beppu train station where I will be catching the bus number two or 7 to Umijigoku. 

But first coffee and something to eat   I did not book breakfast at this hotel, as I didn’t think it would be worth it and to be quite honest I’m kind of tired right now from all that food I had the past two locations I needed to turn down a little and the way to do that is to control my eating and what I put in my mouth

The train station was very quiet. Besides, the minor hustle and bustle were closed. The only place open was the Family Mart and Seattle’s Best Coffee. You’ve got your choices from Starbucks up the road from my hotel or Seattle’s Best. It’s insane how they infiltrated everywhere around the world.  I still had some time to kill, so I decided to walk to my mother’s old home. Back in 2002, the temple behind my mother and grandmother’s house wanted to expand. This expansion led the occupants in surrounding areas to move out. That meant my grandmother had to leave. They bought her out, but memories can’t be purchased. At that time, my grandmother was already 87. Moving in with my aunt wasn’t such a bad idea.    Walking to my mother’s Home was so nostalgic. I’m so proud of myself that I remembered exactly how to get there like it was yesterday. There is a house there now that looks very similar to what my grandmother‘s house used to look like. It might be off by 5 feet from where the original used to be. Still, it’s almost in the same place. I don’t really get it.  We used to use. It’s still across the street at least that has not changed.

I walked back to the train station. Suddenly, everything was open, and there was a little more life. The day was getting hotter. It was only 8:45 in the morning. I think we’re in for a scorcher.  

I had the option of taking number two or number seven to UmiJingu. Number seven arrived first. If I went, I used my IC Suica Card via my app on my phone. I grabbed the number and sat down. When I arrived at. My destination, I gave my number into the machine and I tapped out with my card,  so lovely.

Umijigoku is situated above almost all of the other hells in the area. It is a beautiful place to start. The walk around the area is gorgeous with lots of beautiful gardens, Tori gates, and many beautiful shrines. of course what everybody comes for is the large ocean blue hot spring. I was a little hungry, so I got myself one of the eggs and devoured it. It was delicious.  After my visit there, I went to the other one that has all the clay. Before going there, I was still hungry, so I had one of those famous Beppu custards. Mmmmm

I visited one more hell  I can’t remember the name. I’m sorry. It’s the one with the oni devil on top of a plug. The fork is pointing down and keeping the demons at bay.  There were a lot of tourists from a specific country. I won’t mention which country. They were making the experience a little unpleasant, as they tend to do wherever they go in the world. In Japan, the honor system is huge.  When you’re in the countryside, you might see produce left out. This happens where my aunt lives during the summer. A little coin box is provided for payment. The box shows how much it costs. You pick up the produce and just put the money inside. At the last hall visited you could drink the Hot Springs water. Just leave a 10¥ donation into the box like it says to do. These people just kept coming and pushing. I kept pointing for them to pay the price. I tried to show them how to do it. They just look at me like I’m insane.  Oh well, that’s why they are absolutely annoying.

I walked down following the path with all these wonderful stores, restaurants, and public baths everywhere. There are also beautiful little temples and shrines, and it makes such a beautiful walk. 

I reached  Hyotan an hour early unfortunately they were able to take me in and rearrange my meal. I was very grateful.

I made a few mistakes here. One mistake was trying the hot sand alone. I suggest having another person with you who can help you dig. It’s not easy to dig deep and get your body in. Secondly, make sure you ask for a towel. This way, you don’t end up calling them on the phone in the bathroom because you’re soaking wet. Not finding a towel was such a rookie move.

The bath there are really pretty and very nice. They are all different types of Hot Springs water from Cypress wood, rock, other types of specialties. It’s quite large and really pretty.

The food was OK   Had the Beppu specialty which is called Raemen not Ramen. Which is a cold chewy noodle very much like the Korean counterpart. It was just OK.  

After I was done, I walked back up to catch the bus back to my hotel. I need to drop off all the things I just bought. 

Once I dropped off the things I just bought. I walked over to. Beppu Koen to check out the park but first Starbucks

The park is really beautiful and quiet and tranquil. Someone was taking wedding photos.   Sadly, there aren’t enough benches to sit on especially around the bamboo forest side. I thought it was quite a shame because it would be nice to sit. And enjoy the bamboo forest.

After the park, I walked down past the train station to the Tokiwa Dept store. I wanted to do some shopping.

I learned a valuable lesson here as there was a corner store within the department store, where I bought some things that I was going to consume like razors for my legs, another things and I made a rookie move and used tax-free option knowing well that I would be using the products And I’m not sure if you saw my other post on this topic, but I ended up returning the items and then buying it back with the tax anyway dramas  

The department store is not like it used to be. It is really really sad. I would say it is quite empty. I think it only went up to fourth floor.   Back in the day, I would go to the rooftop. There would be a little carnival and games for us. Kids to play now things are just shut down.  Not sure if Covid played a part in  this. Or I’m just craving my nostalgia things change we can’t help it.  

After dismal shopping, I went and played more Pachinko, which was also dismal, but very fun. And I made my way to the.Beppu Sake stand that my uncle told me to go to. There are a few sake stands, but this one was pretty spectacular  I tried a few different ones and I help some American tourist decide which ones to order  

Buzzed, I walked down to the water. I was pleasantly surprised to see these high school students. They were getting all their tiny little sailboats ready to go out onto the ocean. I was so impressed. It was really cool.

The sun was beginning to  set and my stomach was growling. But where to eat? I looked all over, popping into different places to see if there was anything I wanted to eat. Really, I just wanted to eat Ramen. I wanted real good Beppu style Ramen. And I found it.  There was this elderly lady slurping away. I knew that meant it was good.  Before my bowl came, she was done and she was complementing the chef and giving me the thumbs up 👍 

It was divine and it hit the spot 

Now I’m ready to go back to the hotel and soak in the Hot Springs and watch some Netflix and chill 

Wednesday April 17,2024

Day 3

Happy birthday mom I miss you so much. Today you would’ve been 91.  And here I am in your old hometown thinking of you and remembering all the good times we’ve had here

This morning I woke up, feeling my mom and sending her a nice tribute out on Instagram  today, I’ll be meeting my uncle my mom’s younger brother who I haven’t seen in 12 years and his wife for lunch  

I went to the bath downstairs and enjoyed a lovely relaxing healing morning bath  I feel like my body is feeling so much more better as I have been suffering from chronic sciatica for over a year now after I injured myself caring for my mom  I’m 50 but have been feeling 78  and that is not good  the Hot Springs water here have been healing me and I feel better today than I had felt in a long time  

After my bath, I got ready and made my way back to the train for some of Seattle’s best and walked to my mom’s old house again or rather where it used to be and wished her happy birthday  somewhat of a closure/remembrance/honoring 

I walked around a bit didn’t really know what to do. Should I go and play Pachinko again? OK just a little bit.  I wanted to get it all out of my system. At 12 o’clock, my aunt and uncle arrived. They were punctual as Japanese tend to be. Wow  they are getting old.  I feel so blessed that I am able to see them in this stage of life.  It’s quite beautiful.  my uncle is tall just like me and he used to be an almost pro baseball player. His voice sounds exactly the same. It never aged. It remains deep and commanding.  Interestingly enough, my grandmother’s voice sounded very young. Also like she was a young woman maybe something is in their genes. 

They took me out to eat sushi. They really tested me on my Japanese as they don’t speak a lick of English. While I could definitely Google translate, a lot of things get lost in the translation if I am not quick enough. it was a lovely reunion and the food was really good. They dropped me off one hour later and I sat in my room thinking about my encounter seeing my uncle and aunt after all these years and how precious time is.

Now what to do? I was debating whether or not to go and see.Kifune castle. But after reading about them bringing out that white python in a net  every time, I got totally turned off. I would much rather see a snake free even though they freaked me out.  Obviously not here as they are not indigenous to hear the python that is.

Or are they?

I decided to go to Oita   as it’s also been 12 years since I’ve been to the train station and the surrounding area. I used my ic Suica card to swipe in and get onto the train, but I had to pay an extra 500 on the train because it was a limited express. Good to know  20 mins later I landed at Oita station. Wow oita train station really changed. it’s all fancy and modern and huge. There is a huge department store above the train station  even the bus terminals are different

I walked down to the ekimae as I used to play down here a lot as a young adult when I was bored at my aunts house, I would catch the bus and go shopping. 

It was really a nice time in Oita

Back in Beppu I was looking forward to going to a sake stand again. Sadly, they were all closed, but the Beppu  brewery which were closed the last two days is now open. So I enjoyed a fabulous sampler of three of their local beers and enjoyed Beppu karage chicken. 

Beppu was number one on my list of things to do while in Japan as I wanted to pay homage to my mother and also relive some memories of great times that I’ve had. Beppu is spectacularly beautiful. As is most definitely of Kyushu.  

I got to spend time with a lot of family old and new.  Three nights was the sweet spot.  

I sent my luggage off to Hiroshima today. Now I will go downstairs and enjoy one last evening in a fantastic hot spring bath. Tomorrow …. Hiroshima.

Ps. Happy heavenly birthday okaasan.